DeliCious DeliCacies at DeliCatezze

DeliCious DeliCacies at DeliCatezze

Cannon of Lamb and the Veal Shank cooked to perfection

DeliCatezze hardly rolls off the tongue. We are still convinced we cannot properly pronounce it five months after its facelift from Eden, but now that the very friendly and attentive team (some inherited, some new) have had a little time to find their new feet, what of the food? 

We start with a couple of pints (Mahou and Singha – nice to have some interesting draught options) and decide to have the Pastrami, Dolcelatté & Thyme Mushroom Bruschetta to nibble whilst we peruse the menu and pick some wine: deliciously packed with toppings, and actually well worth the price tag of £5. Think this could become a future favourite of ours when just needing something quick and simple, or indeed helping soak up the alcohol on those sunny al fresco afternoons!

Unfortunately, there was no sun to be had again tonight, and being a miserable, dull evening in Manchester we persuaded ourselves we needed warming, comforting dishes. We choose the Chilli & Lime Calamari and the Shellfish & Nero Spaghetti to start. The Calamari tastes even better than it looks, which is some achievement. Not for the faint-hearted though, as the chilli is wonderfully fierce but is perfectly balanced with the zest, though we can’t help but eat every chilli on the slate. 

The latter didn’t disappoint either, with the squid ink flavour really packing a punch, and it also happens to be available in starter and main portions, as are all the pasta/risotto dishes. 

For mains, we decide on The Cannon of Lamb and the Veal Shank. We had been so impressed with the appetisers, that we were a little afraid the mains might let things down, but how wrong we were. The lamb couldn’t have been cooked or presented better and the accompaniments were really the icing on the cake showing massive attention to detail and flavour by Head Chef Darren Greenwood. Not content with just garlic mash and a deceptively simple pea puree, we are also given black pudding and pancetta, with a rich lavender jus. 

We are huge fans of lavender used in savoury dishes and it does not overpower as it can do in sweets. The veal which is just as equally melt-in-the-mouth (to coin a clichéd but apt phrase), is served with a deliciously earthy Tuscan Bean Casserole, but it’s the bone marrow that makes this particularly special for us. We sacrifice all dignity in making sure the bone is clean. 

Almost about to admit defeat, the very attentive manager Daniel, brings us the regularly changing dessert menu and it’s like selling a new face to Cher: homemade gets us every time - some of the finest restaurants in the City don’t make their desserts in house. We go for the Salted Caramel Cremaux (whatever ‘Cremaux’ is) and the Citrus Slate. The Cremaux we discover is a deliciously rich chocolate torte of sorts finished with some salted caramel cream.

The Citrus Slate (where Chef missed a thematic trick by not calling it ‘Citrus Assiette’) comprises of a Limencello Cheesecake, a beautifully coned Chocolate & Orange Mousse and a sorbet given extra depth with some intruding pomegranate. Pretentious names aside, we would’ve quite easily gone for one of the other choices including a White Chocolate Pannacotta, or a simple and satisfying Affagato. 

Everything is washed down with a lovely recommended bottle of Chianti at a reasonable £22, followed by a couple of Espresso Martinis to finish off a surprisingly wonderful evening. Quite frankly, we had not eaten at DeliCatezze up until this point as we thought the menu was a tad overpriced. With so many top quality venues offering amazing deals, we weren’t sure we were willing to pay £13 for pasta or pizza (though we are massively intrigued by the Paella Pizza – next time).

We cannot fault the quality and taste of the food tonight, or the talents of the kitchen, but we do think the early bird deals of 15% off (20-25% might be more inviting) with a glass of wine and the Monday/Tuesday £10 deal (including an 8oz Ribeye with a glass of wine) are a good idea to attract new customers and create a loyal clientele. Keep up the good work guys, though we would highly advise the menu online being updated too!

You can also enjoy 20% off the a la carte menu with a Canal St Card.


By Nosheel Rahi for Canal St Online.

Reviewed by on .

Rating: 4.5

story published on  Fri, 7 Aug 2015